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Enlightened subscribers to our Morning Spice may have read about the recent lawsuit which is challenging the ‘Cult Of Mystery And Status That Surrounds The Hermès Birkin Bag’.

Two would-be Birkin buyers filed a complaint against the French luxury brand, ostensibly claiming that it is so hard to get your hands on a Hermès Birkin bag that it should be illegal.

Quite how they will prove that “unique desirability and incredible demand” equates to illegality is something you can read about in the Tuesday Morning Spice, but we thought it would be interesting to delve into exactly why this desired accessory is so, well, desired.

To understand the Hermès mania, we have to look at a time before the creation of The Lady Dior (1995), the Gucci Jackie (1961), or the Chanel Classic Flap (1955) that became the must-have accessories. These handbags routinely appear on lists highlighting “it-bags,” “best investment bags,” and “most classic bags” – a testament to their popularity and iconic status.

However, it’s important to acknowledge the original that set the stage for all others: the 1935 Hermès Kelly.

Initially started as a harness workshop – hence the ever-present equestrian influence – the brand was established in 1837 by Thierry Hermès. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, under the leadership of Thierry’s son, Charles-Émile Hermès, the company expanded its product range to include saddlery and began retailing at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris – which remains its flagship store today.

During the 1930s, Émile Hermès’ son-in-law, Robert Dumas, joined the business and began diversifying the brand by introducing some of Hermès’ most iconic creations, like the silk scarf, Chaîne d’Ancre bracelet, and the revolutionary Sac à Dépêches, later known as the Kelly bag.

Dumas’ vision significantly changed the brand’s identity, launching it into the luxury goods market. Inspired by the Haut à Courroies (HAC) bag which was designed for equestrian gear, Dumas reimagined it into the more compact Sac à Dépêches.

 Known for its distinctive trapezoid shape, single handle, and strap closures with a centre toggle, the Kelly bag represented a significant departure from the era’s smaller purses, essentially creating the first modern “handbag” as we know it.

Each Kelly bag was handcrafted by a single artisan over a period of 18 to 25 hours, showcasing Hermès’ commitment to ‘exclusivity and craftsmanship’. The bags were available in various sizes, colours, and materials, including luxurious leather and exotic skins.

The Hermès Sac à Dépêches found its modern name in 1955 when a visionary costume designer, Edith Head, placed the accessory on the arm of Hollywood legend Grace Kelly during the filming of Alfred Hitchcock’s classic To Catch a Thief. Grace Kelly’s character, Frances Stevens, a wealthy American heiress vacationing on the French Riviera, epitomised 1950s glamour, and the Hermès Sac à Dépêches became an iconic symbol of style and luxury.

Grace Kelly (carrying Kelly bag by Hermès) on her last day on the Hollywood studio lot before her departure for Monaco, April 9, 1956.

The princess-to-be is wearing a suit by Edith Head, Hermès bag, and Ferragamo shoes.

📷 Allan Grant for Life magazine pic.twitter.com/JwV95LLxq6

— G-Man (@GMan23677156) February 24, 2024

At the time, Grace Kelly was one of the most famous figures worldwide. Her fondness for the Sac à Dépêches was so great that rumours swirled about her refusal to part with the bag even after filming concluded. In a turn of events mirroring a story straight out of Hollywood, Kelly transitioned from the silver screen’s royalty to actual monarchy by marrying Prince Rainier III of Monaco in 1956. Naturally, the handbag went with her to Monaco.

Sac à Dépêches mania reached fever pitch when she was photographed in 1956 using the Hermès bag to hide her pregnancy bump. This iconic photograph graced the cover of Life magazine, and from that day, the Sac à Dépêches became known as the Kelly bag.

Women worldwide went mad over it and flooded Hermès boutiques looking for the “Kelly Bag,”  forcing Hermés to officially rename the bag in 1977.

With an origin story that includes the cream of Hollywood all the way to the palace in Monaco, it’s easy to understand why the Kelly bag’s modern incarnation, the Hermès Birkin bag, has a “unique desirability and incredible demand”.

Owning a Birkin is tantamount to being royalty. For over eighty years, a Hermès bag has been the epitome of elegance and luxury at its finest. It is the reason ‘must-have accessories’ exist in the luxury fashion market.

[source:instyle]