What goes down – soldiers’ orders:

Now every document has been checked. The group is anxiously waiting for orders from the soldiers. When the directive finally does come, it does not surprise me.

“I’m sure you can all see that white container over there. Each of you must go past that container,” said one soldier. I peer in: R10, R20, R50 notes and lots of coins are scattered at the bottom of the container.

Except for the children, each individual in the group goes past the container, dropping off whatever they can afford. There is no stipulated figure. Some admit they evaded this informal ‘container tax’ by pretending to throw something in. Everyone is let through into Swaziland regardless.

But what about from Swaziland into South Africa?

On the other side, a group of about 25 people is looking to cross into South Africa. They deal with the two South African soldiers who greet them, search their bags and request to see their identity documents. Again there are a few people who did not bring their IDs. They are requested to step aside.

“We will deal with you later. We cannot understand why you don’t bring your IDs, what if you get involved in an accident, how will you be identified, how will your family find you?” a soldier asks.

Everyone is let through, except the people without IDs. They all contribute whatever they can afford. One man is questioned as he leaves. He tells them he’s going to Pongola, and asks that they recognise him when he returns. The soldiers ask what he’ll have for them, and he says he’ll bring along some cold drink. They let him pass.

Apparently, this is a better deal than most:

According to one South African soldier, this is a good deal, and travellers pay far more at other illegal border crossings. “For us it’s become more of a routine that our counterparts from other countries also observe,” he said. It’s clear that the soldiers from both sides of the border work together.

And most people who do it, do so on the reg:

Many of the people who make the illegal crossing are regulars. Perhaps they have children in the neighbouring country, or perhaps they are elderly and cross to receive welfare and health services. None of them possess passports.

“Fixing this situation is in the hands of the affected countries’ governments. Many South African kids attending school in other countries cross here and in other areas illegally. Likewise many kids from other countries cross illegally to get to their schools in South Africa. The soldiers know what damage denying people the pass would do to such kids’ future. All the soldiers can do is search for drugs and weapons. Without these, one is guaranteed a safe, and simple pass,” says S’fiso, a regular here.

Now you know.