In the world of surfing, competition is fierce. Not only are there multiple surfers who crush every wave with an effortless ease and grace, but there are many competing for the world title. And then, there are those enigmas, those who just do them. Laird Hamilton is the perfect example.

In 2000, Laird Hamilton infamously surfed the most dangerous wave in the world. It was as tall as a seven-story building. He was 36 years old. Everybody flipped out.

It’s just one example of how Hamilton has continued to disrupt the surfing world for over 30 years by constantly reinventing new ways to conquer the ocean.

He has saved lives at sea more than once. He’s “shot the pier” by manoeuvring his board in between the supporting pillars of the Malibu pier during a storm. He’s popularized standup paddling and invented tow-in surfing, which has allowed athletes to ride enormous waves in the ocean that were previously deemed impossible. His invention of the foil board could be the future of big wave surfing.

Asked why he has never competed, his reasoning because he is a very bad loser. But the largest discouragement to enter the professional world comes from watching his step-father, Bill Hamilton, compete:

It’s very difficult to judge surfing because surfing is art. I watched my stepfather, who was one of the best surfers of his time, get judged. I watched him have some weird calls in contests, whether they were fair or unfair, and I saw the devastation that it caused him.

A creative man is fulfilled by accomplishments and a competitive man is fulfilled by beating others. I’m all about accomplishments. Ride the biggest wave. It has to do with me. I can always grow and keep accomplishing things.

In the interview with Huffington Post, Laid chats about how his family help him, his strict routines for recovery and a healthy lifestyle as well as his relationship with surfing as a whole. It’s not every day you get to hear a bunch of honest words from someone who can inspire you for a lifetime.

Read more here.

[source: huffingtonpost]