“Hey Sweaty Beatty, you look like like you just took a sauna in a polo neck and socks” (sic)

I am being ragged by Ricky, my over-familiar taxi driver en route to Raffles Hotel from Changi international airport. I am overheating and jet lagged, and not in the mood for banter, friendly or otherwise.

“In Singapore it is either raining and humid, or hot and humid,” he continues, “great for plants.”

We speed along the perfect causeway that leads into the city, and I am struck by the immaculate centre islands, planted with giant Cycades and Spider lilies in full bloom. Thick emerald creepers climb the light posts and massive Rain trees shade the pavements. This place is an urban jungle in the truest sense of the term.

There was this spoilt kid in primary school whose parents were always whisking him and his pretty sister away to exotic locations, and I think back to what he told me about Singapore. Jail time for littering or chewing gum, cheap cameras and a water park the size of Sun City. He came home with an I Love Singapore t-shirt, and a yellow, waterproof walkman that I wanted more than his sister.

I really need some sleep.

I have 48 hours to visit a trade fair, explore the city’s trendiest food and design stores, and review one the worlds most beloved hotels. No problem.

Raffles Hotel and Spa

Raffles is a colonial dreamboat, a glamorous aunt whose red lipstick never smudges even when she perspires. If the Mount Nelson and Victoria Falls hotels are grand old Dames, than Raffles is their older, more worldly sister.

She was born in 1887 and quickly became Singapore’s symbol of affluence and pride, with her tropical gardens, stylish banquets and inscrutable service.

All who enter her lavish halls are treated like royalty, and in a 125 years not much has changed. The famous Singh brothers rotate shifts as doorman, and pose gladly for photos with tourists in their regal turbans and starched white coats. They are the gatekeepers of this exotic wonderland and wave away non-residents and unsuitable taxis with cat like swats.

I am carefully examined in my creased travel clothes and my less than desirable, generic hard top luggage. I should have listened to mom when she told me to always travel with a blazer.

“We are guests of yours, good sir!”, I attempt in my best colonial accent and Mr. Singh smiles ever so elegantly and quips, “Of course sir”, and the gates to heaven are opened.

A striking display of the worlds finest Orchids are on hand on the entrance hall table to remind you that this is the kind of hotel were no expense is spared, even when it comes to the flora.

Our room is not quite ready as checkout is at noon, and it is still early morning, so we are offered a freshly squeezed orange juice and invited to make use of the spa facilities to freshen up.

I feel smug and indulged as I lie sprawled on the steam room bench, wrapped in thick cotton towels. I feel like Prince Harry after a game of strip polo. As a footnote, his brother William recently stayed at Raffles with his wife, and their portrait hangs alongside his gran, Liz Taylor and more recently Dita Von Teese in one of the many corridor halls.

To avoid the tedious detail of a standard review let’s proceed as follows:

Enormous and glamorous room with inappropriately large marble bathroom – tick. Ridiculously attentive yet friendly staff who are there when you need them and not when you don’t – tick. Lush green private courtyards to enjoy breakfast and high teas – tick . The best amenities in Asia including, indulgent spa, large rooftop swimming pool – tick, tick and tick.

There are over a dozen bars and restaurants on site, offering a melange of gastronomic wonders. From seasonal curries at the sparkling Tiffin Room with its starched floor length table cloths and silver tea sets, to an indulgent top-pant-button-releasing steak frite at the  wonderful Longbar steakhouse. This is the spot where the Singapore Sling cocktail was conceived, and guests are encouraged to throw their peanut shells on the floor. Silly, but quite fun.

For me, the most accurate measurement of a hotel’s soul is the humble and often overlooked club sandwich, and I put Raffles to the test one quiet afternoon whilst nestled in my comfortable lounger around the swimming pool. Crispy toasted white bread, crunchy but not overcooked bacon (streaky, not from the back). Lettuce, fresh tomato, creamy mayonnaise dressing, scratch roast turkey and the real clincher, a fried egg.

Raffles, like the aforementioned club sandwich is quite simply, perfect. Neither are cheap, but then, neither are you.

Singapore city

Singapore is home to two of the world’s greatest bookstores, with Japanese mega brand Kinokuniya (Takashimaya shopping center, Orchard Road) and my favorite bookstore on earth, Books Actually (9 Yong Siak Street).

Kinokuniya is the size of a New York block, with perfectly merchandised shelves that stretch endlessly like a literary railroad. I asked one of the store managers if they had any bird reference guides for Madagascar, and she replied in a hushed librarian whisper, “Yes, just one though, and it’s on Indian Ocean birds”, and she led me to the correct shelf. Enough said.

If Bob Dylan, Edgar Allan Poe and the Mad Hatter had a book club, they would have it at Books Actually.

Rooms filled with Pez candy dispenser collections and coloured glass bottles that look as though they had washed up on a mythical shore and books, glorious books everywhere.

There is also the resident pride of mottled  white cats that follow sunbeams over more books and maps in search of a suitable resting spot.

Kenny Leck, the owner of this poetic homage to writing and the love of books explains that Books Actually was one of the first in a growing line of alternative retail stores and restaurants to find a home in the now trendy Yong Siak Street. Nestled in Tiong Bahru, once a mass of housing estates and soulless food courts, we spoke of gentrification and the perils of a thirsty landlord, and for a brief moment I feel a part of Kenny’s creative world, where in the background his cult of gorgeous store clerks high five each in recognition as a line in a song playing in the store touches home.

Singapore has over the past few years increased its value on the hipster index, with an array of new and exciting restaurants and design stores. Listed below are some of the ones that I visited and a short review.

Front row (Raffles hotel arcade) Parisian lable dejour APC and a cool selection of designer carry bags, Doc Martin limited edition shoes and clothing.

Strangelets (7 Jong Siak St) Must visit! Ceramics, Astier de Villatte candles, quirky stationary and brillaint gifts.

Sccube the Apothecary (176 Orchard rd)  For the coolest artisanal  toiletries.

Haji Lane Visit this street close to Raffles Hotel for all the latest young design and clothing stores .

Open Door Policy (19 Yong Siak St) Amazing cafe/ bar for lunch or dinner. Sublime menu with  exciting food and drinks that don’t disappoint.

Tiong Bakery (56 Eng Hoon St) Parisian tarts and patisserie with great coffee and Singapore’s coolest crowd.

Din Tai Fung (Everywhere) Dim Sum chain that the NY Times rates as one of the top 10 best restaurants on the planet. Never disappoints!