In my last column on rad bargain wines that I have tasted recently, I wrote: ““Such wines are readily available, but I generally find they are imported, and as such at a price point that the general wine drinking public will find excessive.” A reader, JoeMwah, commented “How about naming a few names? It might be interesting to try out some of your benchmarks, even if it means stretching the budget.”
I quickly realised that I had forgotten who I was writing for. You suave, well-dressed, high LSM 2oceansvibe readers may be sailing through these troublesome economic times with more, “Full steam ahead, captain!” and less “Batten down the hatches!” than me. You see, I have, of late, been drifting toward the cheaper end of the wine spectrum as the belt has unwillingly been drawn in these tough economic times. So this column is for stretched budgets, treats, great bottles, and benchmarks.
It’s for JoeMwah.
The column that the comment was posted under explored some new South African wines at very good prices I have come across. They showed excellent balance, freshness and deliciousness. So the wines I suggest now will be international with the same attributes, just a little pricier. I am going to be referencing wines that are available from Wine Cellar in Observatory, Cape Town, as that is where I go to buy international wines. There are going to be one or two wines that are pretty expensive, but I am going to keep them under R250. These are wines that I have tasted in the last year or so that stuck in my head – the wines that I woke up the next morning still thinking about.
The first wine that comes to mind is the Allain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage 2009. I drank a lot of the 2007 earlier this year. I love it. It’s from the Northern Rhone, and very characteristic of the region. The wine is 100% Syrah, and shows loads of intensity, but at the same time there’s a lightness on the palate. It’s juicy, fresh, savoury, with really great earthy, olive characters that I’m a complete sucker for. Chatting with some winos the other day, one said that this might be the best value fine wine in the world. It only costs R195. This is a superb wine for the price. No, actually it is just a superb wine, the price just makes it high-fiveable. It does, however, make me consider what value we are getting for the South African wines that are playing in the R250-plus range.
But it is easy to fantasise. Indeed, as I was dreamily thinking about the Graillot, and almost tasting the bright red fruit and olivey goodness, my cell-phone beeped and reminded me that my car insurance and cell-phone bill, had come off my account. I opened a bottle of Oddbins and carried on dreaming.
Staying in France but heading out of the Rhone to the Languedoc, I thought of Michael Chapoutier’s Bila-Haut ‘Occultam Lapidem’ 2008. This blend of Grenache and Syrah is a really, really drinkable and refreshing wine. It’s shows herbs and spices, with that key combination of richness and lightness. For R145 it is a perfect wine to introduce yourself to this region. Chapoutier is famous for his Rhone wines, and this is a side project for him. Though it is really good value at R145, the problem is you will have to buy two bottles, because the first one finishes very quickly.
How about something very different? Here is a wine from Sicily, grown on the volcanic soils of Mount Etna. The Tere Nere Etna Rosso 2008 is it is produced from 98% Nerello Mascalese, and 2% Nerello Cappuccio, the local grape varieties. It’s a medium bodied wine, almost Pinot like. Fresh and clean. The wine has a mineral streak in it – no I am not going to say you can taste the volcano – and, simply put, it’s just different. This is going to be the cheapest wine I recommend here, and my goodness you’ll be the star of your hipster dinner party if you bring this along. It is only R125. That’s only a little over a single buffalo for a wine from Sicily, grown on a freaking volcano. Okay, not quite on the volcano, but damn close.
What about whites? Well, the first place I am going to take you is Burgundy. White Burgundy is amazing. These wines can be truly magnificent, the queens of wine. They’re complex, nutty, citrusy, angled, light and fucking expensive. It’s just the way things are. If you want to get the good stuff from the most prized vineyards you are looking at a R1 000, easy. However, there are some cheaper versions at the R300 level which are delicious and a good way to get started on a habit that may drain your pension one day. I promise you will not regret it. How about starting with a Joseph Drouhin Mersault? Mersault is a commune within the Côte de Beaune in Burgundy and produces, nutty, oatmeally, citrussy generous wines from Chardonnay. This wine sells from R300 to R335, depending on the vintage. I haven’t had it for a while, but if you are a person who turns their noses up at Chardonnay, this could very well change your mind.
If you want something a little more zingy, then how about a Loire Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre? The Daniel Chotard Sancerre Blanc 2010 sells for the modest price of R165, and is quite typical of the area. It is aged on the lees for a bit and shows a mineral edge with some citrus and white flower flavours. While it’s not the most complex wine, it is a very satisfying drink. It’s a great primer to a long, wine filled dinner.
I’m going to finish off my suggestions with a Spanish wine with a South African connection. The Terroir al Limit Dits del Terra 2008 is made by South African Eben Sadie, in the Spanish region of Priorat. The wine is made from 100% Carinena (Carignan) whose vines are 83 years old, grown in schist, or slate soils. I have tasted this wine a couple times from different vintages. I can remember it’s spicy depth and its intensity of flavour, but that it was presented to the palate with such ease and elegance. It is a wine that tastes expensive. And it is rather, at R595 a bottle.
If you are looking to spend that on a bottle of wine, please do, and then give me a call, I’ll bring an Oddbins and some, well, let’s see, I can possibly afford some great conversation.
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