The place: What’s On Eatery

The address: 6 Watson Street, Cape Town.

Restaurant reviews have long fascinated me. So often they resemble nothing like a restaurant review. And certainly not a review of the food that the writer enjoyed (or didn’t), the venue in which the food was served or the quality of the cuisine.

No, the restaurant review often resembles a flow of thought. Reading one can be like taking an amble with the writer and listening to his or her views on a range of topics – none of which relate remotely to food. A look at life through their prism if you will, prior to a brief précis of a dinner out. Generally rather dull foreplay ahead of the main course. Nevertheless, I remain a great fan, and love to read them – particularly those by AA Gill – a master of the review.

I digress.

A few weeks back I wrote a short piece on the launch of a new service in Cape Town called Table Magic. It is an online restaurant booking site which is/has/will certainly make the lives of Capetonians much easier. Restaurant bookings can now be made from the comfort of your desk by logging on to www.tablemagic.co.za, without the need for those annoying, and often embarrassing calls to a receptionist who battles to hear you above the din around her. Nothing like calling a restaurant and then having the receiver placed on the table only to hear the orders from table 12, the tardiness of waitresses, the frustration with the management.

Thank you Table Magic for liberating us from that struggle.

So I made my booking at the delightful near eatery – cleverly named What’s On Eatery – situated in Watson Street in the “City Bowl”.  Get it? Nevermind.

It is a relative newcomer to the Cape Town restaurant scene, in operation for a shade over four months as both a deli during the day and restaurant in the evening. I most confess (even though this is a review), What’s On Eatery is outstanding – no question about it.

As is the way with most restaurant reviews, I was accompanied by the Blonde who provided not only a tasting sound-board, but sparkling repartee and an invaluable fountain of knowledge on all things food-, and wine-related.

To reach the restaurant one passes through the stark white deli-style café which I imagine must be very popular with the magazine set during the day. The walk upstairs is well worth the effort as the Blonde and I entered an eating haven – very cosy with the wooden floorboards and low ceiling reining one in comfortingly, rather then claustrophobically. I wasn’t wild about the soft furnishings, but luckily the acoustics were spot on so nobody could overhear my musings. And this a restaurant review after all.

We waited once or twice but didn’t struggle to catch our waiters eye, the intimate seating came in handy here. I was ravenous so sampled the fresh bread offered upon arrival and I am pleased to report that both the bread and olive oil at were up to scratch – unlike many spots in town. We were off to a flyer.

The wine list is perfect for a mid-week jaunt. Easy to navigate, to the point and so fairly priced that you would feel guilty not taking a bottle. We settled on a sultry Pinot Noir, which at under R200 is as rare a find in Cape Town these days as faithfully married Premiership footballer in England.

After a satisfactory, though unremarkable starter, I opted for what proved to be an inspired choice – Beef Wellington served with roasted baby vegetables and green peppercorn Borelaise jus. As good, no, better than it sounds. The What’s On variation on a British classic was utterly sublime. Like Federer in his pomp – all style, subtlety and substance.

I did frown at the Blonde’s slightly boring choice of Line Fish in a restaurant aiming to become known for its meat dishes, however I am assured that it didn’t disappoint. She quickly undid all her good intentions by polishing off the generous side of creamy potatoes au gratin. Both mains also had accompanying fresh garden greens.

The portions were so generous neither of us could fit in pudding (maybe should have listened to the old wives tales about the bread basket) but that certainly gives a good reason to go back. And from catching a glance of the chocolate fondant on offer, a pretty good one.

So all in all. A superb outing. Seamless booking through Table Magic and an eatery which should be on the scene for a Long time. Get it? Nevermind.

Review brought to you by Table Magic.